Ferrets United

A Basic Primer for Owning Ferrets

by Troy Lynn Eckart

INTRODUCTION

Ferrets are excellent domestic companion animals. The key words are domestic and companion. However, they are not for everyone. Ferrets have special needs and require a time-consuming commitment on the caretakers part. Please do NOT buy or adopt a ferret on impulse or accept a giveaway if you cannot provide the proper physical, emotional and financial support to the ferret. They are certainly cute and they are living, feeling, social animals. It is suggested that potential ferret owners read and research ferret ownership before bringing one into their home.

Due to their small size and curious nature, ferrets can easily get into dangerous, even life-threatening situations. It is important to ferret-proof the area your ferret will have access to. Ferrets should be on a regular vaccination regimen to prevent serious illness such as distemper. Rabies vaccinations are recommended for ferrets that will have frequent interaction with a variety of individuals. In many states, ferrets are covered by the same rabies regulations as dogs and cats.

HOUSING

Ferrets should be housed in a cage or safe secure area when unsupervised. If using a cage, it should be wire, never an aquarium which does not allow for adequate air flow. Wire floors should be covered with an easily cleanable surface such as linoleum or plastic carpet runners. Carpet may be used but should be cleaned or replaced as needed.

Bedding should consist of materials such as baby blankets, t-shirts or sweatshirts that will not unravel. Ferrets enjoy sleeping in hammocks too. Wood chips and wood shavings should not be used as these materials give off fumes that can irritate the sensitive respiratory system of ferrets and cause skin irritations as well. Newspaper or paper based bedding materials may be used.

Ferrets are very temperature sensitive and should not be kept in too cool or too hot of an environment. While the optimum temperature is controversial, most ferrets do well in temperatures of 68-74 degrees.

FOOD

Ferrets are carnivores and because of their fast digestive tract, their diet should consist of a high quality meat based ferret or cat/kitten food to meet their requirements of at least 32% meat based protein and at least 18% fat. Ferrets are sensory animals and a ferret fed one type of food may not recognize an alternative food as food and can and will starve themselves to death if food is abruptly changed. A change of foods should be done slowly by mixing small amounts of the new food in with the old until the ferret accepts the new. Baby ferrets may need to have their food moistened with a mothers milk substitute such as Esbilac and warm water until they are able to freely eat hard kibble. The food dish should be attached to cage or constructed of a heavy ceramic and/or wide bottom so that it cannot be tipped over. Ferrets have a fast metabolism rate and food transit is normally 3-5 hours so they should have access to both fresh food and water at all times. Ferrets can be given treats such as specially made ferret treats, raisins, fresh or dried fruit, cooked eggs or cheese, but these should be given in moderation only. Ferrets will go off feed if they are not feeling well so food intake (and output) should be closely monitored.

Fresh clean water should always be available. A water bottle or heavy crock should be kept filled with clean fresh water. If using a water bottle, your ferret should also have access to a bowl of water in case the water bottle clogs or all the water leaks out.

HYGIENE

Ferrets need to have their nails clipped regularly. Human finger nail clippers or cat nail clippers may be used. Be careful to clip above (not in to) the pink area of the nail. Keeping nails clipped prevents damage to the ferrets toes and prevents snagging which can pull a nail out. It will also lessen the chance of being scratched. Ferrets do have a normally faint musky odor and frequent bathing will intensify this odor. The body will continually try to replace the natural oils that were washed away and you will have a more smelly ferret. If the ferret has been kept in an unclean environment a bath will be needed. Wash your ferrets bedding regularly and clean the cage daily. Clean environments are critical to ferret health.

MEDICAL

Ferrets need a yearly veterinary exam, and vaccinations. Ferrets are prone to cancers and should be monitored closely, particularly from age 3 and older, after which time they’ll need a yearly veterinary check-up with a blood panel to check for variations that might signal early health problems.

Insulinoma (hypoglycemia) and adrenal (overproduction of hormones causing hairloss, prostate enlargement and urinary blockages in males, vulva swelling in females, mating behavior, excess drinking) are two of the most common ailments in ferrets. Both can be treated by either surgery or medications but in some cases surgery is not curative. Lymphosarcoma is another common ailment in ferrets.

ECE is a ferret corona virus that causes severe diarrhea, sometimes vomiting, dehydration, and needs to be treated promptly and aggressively with supportive care.

Ferrets also are susceptible to heart ailments, fleas, ear mites, heartworm (mainly in endemic areas), and our colds and flu.

SOCIALIZATION & PLAYING

Ferrets are very social animals that love to play and interact with people and normally get along well with other ferrets unless they have been in a single ferret household for some time. Ferrets may pose a deadly threat to small animals such as hamsters, rats, mice, guinea pigs, birds, and reptiles. Ferrets love toys but special care must be taken that their toys aren’t made of plastic, rubber, foam, or other materials that can be chewed and swallowed. Most of all, your ferret will love to play with you!

Ferrets enjoy playing and sleeping in pet furniture. They enjoy playing in tubes but make sure tubing is large enough that they don’t get stuck as they will struggle to free themselves and may cause fatal injuries. Do not let them play with paper towel or toilet paper rolls as they may get their heads stuck and suffocate.

Ferrets are companion animals, not cage animals. The more love and attention you give your ferret, the more your ferret will respond to you. Ferrets should have out of cage time and human interaction several hours each day.

TRAINING & DISCIPLINE

Ferrets can be trained to use a litter box, although a 100% “hit” rate is not guaranteed. Ferrets can also be trained to do tricks such as sitting up, standing up, coming when called, and rolling over. Young ferrets (kits) may bite or nip but with gentle discipline, patience and consistency, they can be taught that these behaviors are unacceptable. NEVER, NEVER hit your ferret (this will result in a “fear biter”) or “thump” it’s nose. A more effective way to discipline a ferret is to simply say loudly, “NO!” and clap your hands. You may also make a hissing sound or a time-out in it’s cage.

OUTINGS

Ferrets enjoy going for walks but they can slip out of a collar. Ferrets should never be allowed outdoors without a harness and leash that is designed specifically for ferrets. They also enjoy rides in cars but a loose ferret in a vehicle may be dangerous. Your ferret will feel safe (and so will you) if he is transported in a pet carrier. NEVER leave ANY animal unattended in a vehicle.

RESOURCES

There are many valuable ferret information resources including books, magazines, and if you have access to the Internet, you can find information at Ferret Central (http://www.ferretcentral.org). Doing a simple search on the Internet will provide many sites with ferret care and medical information.

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